Original 1942 Advance Pattern No. 3017 - Sailor Collar Dress

Original 1942 Advance Pattern No. 3017 for a misses' dress designed for women's wear in the first year of America's war. A long bodice drops to a band at the hip above a full gathered skirt. View 1 has a sailor collar, short cuffed sleeves, and braid and star trim; View 2 has a heart-shaped neckline and long or three-quarter sleeves. Complete Nice Condition, 11 of 11 pieces.

Quick Facts

• Pattern Number: Advance No. 3017
• Year: Dated 1942, found in the Advance Pattern Fashion News, June 1942, Pages 3 and 5
• Garment: Misses' Dress
• Size: 12 (30" Bust, 25" Waist, 33" Hip)
• Condition: Complete Nice Condition, 11 of 11 Pieces

Design

Advance 3017 is built on a long-torso line. The fitted bodice is shaped with soft gathers at the shoulder and runs past the natural waist to a band at the hip, where a full skirt is gathered on. A breast pocket and a hip pocket are included, along with a shoulder pad, and the dress closes at the side with a 9-inch slide fastener or snaps. View 1 is the sailor version: a wide sailor collar edged in braid, short sleeves finished with braided cuffs, and a star on the pocket, with braid and stars listed among the notions. View 2 trades the collar for a heart-shaped neckline that closes at the back with a short zipper or buttons, with long or three-quarter sleeves. The envelope suggests pique, linen, novelty cotton, rayon crepe, spun rayon, or a rayon and wool blend. In size 12 the dress is 40 inches long at center back and about 2 yards around the hem.

A Moment in Fashion History

Navy-inspired styles swept American fashion after Pearl Harbor. Sailor collars, braid trim, and stars let women show their support for the men in uniform, and the look appeared on everything from dresses to blouses to children's clothes. Advance featured this design twice in its June 1942 Pattern Fashion News, once as a tailored dress trimmed in braid and once as an afternoon dress. The long-torso bodice and gathered skirt were a youthful silhouette of the early 1940s, and offering a patriotic sailor version and a softer heart-necked version in one pattern gave home sewers two dresses for a single purchase.

Illustration

The envelope front and back are shown as scanned, framed on our blue mat without retouching, so the artwork appears in its true color and condition. View 1, on the left, is drawn in solid blue with white braid on the sailor collar and cuffs and a star on the breast pocket. View 2, on the right, is in a blue and white floral print with three-quarter sleeves and a bow in her hair.

Connections

Advance featured this sailor-collar dress twice in its June 1942 Pattern Fashion News, issued six months after Pearl Harbor, on pages 3 and 5. The same issue offered a dress or house coat with wide revers, Advance 2773, also in our shop. See the whole issue in our Advance Pattern Fashion News, June 1942 digital download, and explore our exhibit celebrating the resourcefulness and everyday style of wartime home sewing, Women of WWII.